Ski Switzerland: Verbier chronicles
As part of our 9-day ski trip across Southern Switzerland, we set off from Crans-Montana, headed for our next destination, Verbier 4 Vallées, a mere 90-minute ride aboard one the comfortable Swiss Railways trains.
The Epic Pass offers 5 consecutive days of skiing in Verbier 4 Vallées, a resort catering primarily to advanced and expert skiers with its extensive off-piste terrain, steep descents, and challenging freeride opportunities. Our five-day log here details a ski trip with thrilling runs and Alpine charm.
Day 1 on the slopes we decided to take it easy and focus on the gentle terrain of Savoleyres and La Tzoumaz, in preparation for the days to come.
Itinerary run in the Verbier sector
On Day 2, we ventured across the vast 4 Vallées ski area, skiing for two hours from Verbier to Thyon. The highlight of the day was our lunch at Le Bois Sauvage, a gourmet restaurant known for its local Valaisan cuisine. Each course was a work of art: from a creative amuse-bouche to mouth-watering beef gravlax, followed by succulent “black leg” poultry from Gruyère. The meal culminated in a striking dessert called "Who Stole the Merchant's Orange", featuring a sugar-crafted orange shell filled with orange cream and a delightful tarragon cake. After a leisurely 2.5-hour dining experience, we rushed back to Verbier to catch the last lift, narrowly avoiding a long two-hour bus ride back.
“Black leg” poultry with sliced truffle, Le Bois Sauvage, Thyon
"Who Stole the Merchant's Orange", Le Bois Sauvage, Thyon
Day 3 was nothing short of exhilarating, marked by the thrill of off-piste skiing under the guidance of Sandy Miller, an experienced English guide, based in Verbier for the last 16 years, whose expertise and passion for the mountains made a significant impact on our adventure. Despite the less-than-ideal weather conditions, Sandy's skillful direction took us to the picturesque Petite Mouche, where we were greeted with soft, powdery snow and the delightful bonus of fewer skiers to share the slopes with. The intimacy of the setting allowed for a more personal experience, and Sandy’s patient demeanour coupled with tailored technique tips elevated our skiing skills to new heights. We began our day bright and early at 8:30 AM, carving our way through the stunning landscape until 4:30 PM.
Free-riding with our fantastic guide Sandy Miller, Verbier
With improved weather conditions, on day 4 we decided to move up a gear and tackle the more challenging runs down Mont Fort and Mont Gelé, both above 3000m of altitude. Tackling both mountains in a day can be exhausting and is reserved for the more advanced or expert skiers. While Mont Fort offers one of the steepest, toughest and mogul-filled marked runs in the 4 Vallées, Mont Gelé is entirely off-piste, with steep terrain and deep powder. But the one thing they both share is the 360-degree breathtaking panoramic views of the Alps.
Day 5, our legs demanded a break, and we decided to head to the sometimes-forgotten ski area of Bruson, located across the valley from Verbier and accessible via a gondola from Le Châble. Bruson offers tree-lined runs and fewer crowds, making it a great spot for a more relaxed experience compared to Verbier’s main slopes. And if we needed yet another reason to visit Bruson, we ended our trip with a final meal at one of our favourite restaurants in the region, La Cot, cozy and unglamorous and deeply rooted in the traditions of these mountains.
The Bruson sector, with the stupendous view of Dents du Midi (Teeth of the South), and some free-riding
When it comes to selecting your ideal accommodation, the options are abundant and diverse, catering to every traveler’s preference and budget. Whether you gravitate towards the vibrant ambiance of Verbier or prefer the quaint charm of Nendaz, Le Chable, or Savoyleres, each village promises its own unique experience.
Verbier village, while dazzling with its opulent style and high-end boutiques, reveals a superficial charm that aligns with its hefty price tag, exemplified by the buzzing Zara Ski pop-up store. This might not be to everyone’s appeal, but for those who revel in a glamorous après-ski scene and designer-clad crowds, it offers an undeniably chic and lively atmosphere.
Zara Ski pop-up shop, Verbier
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